Road to a fanless printhead 2 - brushless DIY blower

3d printing

/ April 17, 2014
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In continuation of my <a href="http://chopmeister.blogspot.com/2013/11/road-to-fanless-printhead-diy-radial.html">previous DIY blower post</a>, I have some progress to report.<br />
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So there I was thinking which brushless motor to get for my DIY blower, and couldn't really find anything suitable (partly because of my total lack of knowledge about brushless motors and controllers). And then it struck me. Why buy a motor and controller, and then mess with programming and interfacing it with the printer's electronics when there are people who did all that messy work for me. There is a component all we DIYers have in abundance - DC fans! They are brushless, have integrated controllers and are PWM controlled. Now, to power a blower like this one would need a really powerful fan.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCXda0pduKoF0krH1ulRdV-_AJdgBAm2CIIJ0KPKwV3rU0rq22zd4IdI0aFoA7SDEA-Lg0UP6VVjGfKp4tIkDguvv3QYONfRDlTeGqGsI3tZLQByb8S24f0o4AJ1kYBip97tr8c69ydqo/s1600/h80_rad_fans.png" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="226" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjCXda0pduKoF0krH1ulRdV-_AJdgBAm2CIIJ0KPKwV3rU0rq22zd4IdI0aFoA7SDEA-Lg0UP6VVjGfKp4tIkDguvv3QYONfRDlTeGqGsI3tZLQByb8S24f0o4AJ1kYBip97tr8c69ydqo/s1600/h80_rad_fans.png" width="320" /></a></div>
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Luckily for me (in this particular case), the water-cooler in my workstation PC broke down recently and it came with 2 <b>really</b> powerful 120mm fans. Well, it was time for some fan surgery. :)<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9u970fdMUs5jG33i8KM2x3eaABf89lEGxyqdEzrTiA_JKAsa4aiA7P4EI3pil5TEICOFaTUg8QLZ1OrgifH8fFUpElC0oSi__mzC1sMkFPK1COM8-zef-AoXfiJ4u1ocsDgBL-lJzO0A/s1600/surgery.gif" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="165" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj9u970fdMUs5jG33i8KM2x3eaABf89lEGxyqdEzrTiA_JKAsa4aiA7P4EI3pil5TEICOFaTUg8QLZ1OrgifH8fFUpElC0oSi__mzC1sMkFPK1COM8-zef-AoXfiJ4u1ocsDgBL-lJzO0A/s1600/surgery.gif" width="200" /></a></div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">[this won't hurt a bit...]</span></div>
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First off, I needed some way to extract the motor, so I kinda ripped one apart completely, and then I realized I would have trouble attaching the impeller to the tiny shaft <i><span style="font-size: x-small;">(yes, I know, tiny shaft, very funny)</span></i>, and even more trouble keeping it centered. So fan no.1 was a bust.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFCwxwwXLGc2eo07Bv-3s6-SI_Rb97G__48o_s2zXzqUgRBq1bpAY-EHlB52la9RK7wKLaIvyQNk06IahB09WAH8dRPuF9MJ46sBr2nJ46tM0s-AWNuw9KOBjmbPvBxNpcgf63B7_E-UE/s1600/motor.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="222" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjFCwxwwXLGc2eo07Bv-3s6-SI_Rb97G__48o_s2zXzqUgRBq1bpAY-EHlB52la9RK7wKLaIvyQNk06IahB09WAH8dRPuF9MJ46sBr2nJ46tM0s-AWNuw9KOBjmbPvBxNpcgf63B7_E-UE/s1600/motor.jpg" width="320" /></a></div>
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Now I approached fan no.2 with a bit more care. First I snapped away all the blades <i>(very sharp and nasty when broken!) </i>and removed the little clip in the back which holds the rotor in place <i>(being careful not to lose it). </i><br />
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I could now remove the rotor, but it still had what you could call stumps left from where I <strike>amputated</strike> removed the fan blades. Using a hobby knife I got rid of those as best as I could. To finish the job, I placed it in my trusty drill press and set it to rotate at high speed while holding a piece of sandpaper to it. <i>(Kind of an impromptu lathe, if you will.)</i><br />
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Excuse the lack of photos at this step, I forgot to take them at the time and it was too late afterwards!<br />
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Then I returned the rotor back to its place and attached it with the small clip. I also got rid of the fan's frame by cutting the 4 legs connecting the motor to the frame.<br />
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It was time for some careful measurement and drawing. What I got in the end looked something like this:<br />
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The design I came up with was very basic, because I wanted to try it out as soon as I could. Here's what it looks like:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCQEPM1UDZo7CcPNNdR9O1krtD1_TVtkJGuVHTWmY-Ph7JVhls-cqtzgri_Z2NRwEhVae0Pz0Qc7HeSCKSCTy2T6GDNuv_yiO1cZ80cvSBpQb4LM6MUS4ncE3onwrQIrSKbh4Ir8SiACs/s1600/blower-exploded.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="400" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhCQEPM1UDZo7CcPNNdR9O1krtD1_TVtkJGuVHTWmY-Ph7JVhls-cqtzgri_Z2NRwEhVae0Pz0Qc7HeSCKSCTy2T6GDNuv_yiO1cZ80cvSBpQb4LM6MUS4ncE3onwrQIrSKbh4Ir8SiACs/s1600/blower-exploded.jpg" width="253" /></a></div>
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The impeller in the picture is mirrored though, in the end I opted for a backwards curved one, because it <a href="http://www.krugerfan.com/brochure/publications/Tbn007.pdf">produces more pressure</a> and is quieter.<br />
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Note that the goal here is to push air down a substantial length of silicone tubing which has an inner diameter of only 8mm, so pressure is essential.<br />
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This design also features the world's most horrible approximation of an involute curve, because I have absolutely no clue how to construct one in AutoCAD <i>(at least not in a fast way)</i>.<br />
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With the design done, I fired up the printer and this is what came out in the end:<br />
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I left the temperature too high while printing the impeller so it came out a bit shoddy, but it works. The tape is here to seal the air from escaping where the parts connect. The impeller is attached to the rotor with extra heavy duty double sided tape. I've used it before for things that rotate fast and it holds forever, but it's still removable with a bit of force if you need to change things.<br />
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So there you have it, a DIY brushless blower. But the million dollar question is...<br />
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Why yes, it does! Thank you for asking. And compared to the DC motor I used before, this is like a gazillion times more quiet.<br />
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I know the old "video or it didn't happen" so here's a crappy video I managed to record (it's 4 AM here, so that's the best you get for now).<br />
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For reference, the scale in the video is 40cm long.<br />
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<iframe allowfullscreen="" frameborder="0" height="390" src="//www.youtube.com/embed/JIkNgEDBqNs" width="640"></iframe>

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Quite some airflow through an 8mm openining, huh? I must determine the correct length of tubing I need for the printhead and test with that too, although for now I can confirm that it indeed pushes air even through the much too long piece of tubing I have now.<br />
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Now imagine how cool this would be with a properly designed impeller and casing?<br />
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More tests and videos to come as soon as I find some time.<br />
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3d Systems. Go. Away.

/ April 15, 2014
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<div>My <a href="http://chopmeister.blogspot.com/2013/11/thus-fun-ends-and-patent-trolling-begins.html">patent related blog post</a> dealt a lot with Stratasys, so I think I kinda neglected the other star-player in the 3d printing world - 3D Systems. It's time I remedy that. :)<br />
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So, recently 3D Systems announced a whole bunch of new printers, some of which happen to be in the consumer segment, which is our area of interest. Let's have a closer look at one of them:<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixivTCc2-R4DdGWe_nEBFiOCq-y20esYc-4VFEVkOXZ3buCol1pUMcrJcTLO9cidR2cTiNnicdPd-Jh2K4_3whJ7qDaVKVGL7z5gAPx957qiYmuki6oSHKzl0jc-F8IVDba9dvjXWhd1E/s1600/cubepro.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="353" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEixivTCc2-R4DdGWe_nEBFiOCq-y20esYc-4VFEVkOXZ3buCol1pUMcrJcTLO9cidR2cTiNnicdPd-Jh2K4_3whJ7qDaVKVGL7z5gAPx957qiYmuki6oSHKzl0jc-F8IVDba9dvjXWhd1E/s1600/cubepro.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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There is a video ad posted by 3d systems for the CubePro available <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=p02v1rzq454">HERE</a>. I took the liberty of taking a few screenshots in HD. So here they go:<br />
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This is their "cool" slogan for the CubePro. <i>(Any similarity to the title of this post is purely coincidental.) </i>Thank god 3d printing has finally become real. I thought I was dreaming these last few years.<br />
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After they tell us what awesome features it has (like built in WiFi, color touchscreen, triple extruders etc.), we get to see a really sped-up print of a vase. Here's some screenshots of said print:<br />
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Mmm. Yeah. Pro.<br />
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Now, here's a quote from their <a href="http://www.3dsystems.com/press-releases/3d-systems-ups-prosumer-standards-new-sub-5000-cubeprotm-3d-printer">press release:</a><br />
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<span style="line-height: 22.000019073486328px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>“We are proud to be the <span style="color: #6fa8dc;">first to deliver professional quality prints to the consumer and prosumer</span>, enabling educators, entrepreneurs and tech enthusiasts to match their creativity with greater productivity,” said Rajeev Kulkharni, Vice President, General Manager, Consumer Products, 3DS. “The CubePro is the <span style="color: #6fa8dc;">ultimate desktop 3D printer</span> for the lab, workshop and office, compressing development cycles and increasing productivity.”</i></span></span><br />
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It seems I'm obviously not enough of a professional to understand the majestic quality of this print and their <i>firstness</i> in delivering it. In my first <a href="http://chopmeister.blogspot.com/2013/11/whateverbots-and-3d-printing-vaporware.html">3d printing vapourware post</a>, I stated my concern that newer printer models care much more about various gimmicks than they do about actual print quality. The CubePro seems to be no different. And bear in mind, this is a "Sub $5000" printer (probably $4999.99), so not your average DIY printer.<br />
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Here's another quote from the same press release:<br />
<span style="font-family: "open sans" , "helvetica" , "arial"; font-size: 12px; line-height: 22.000019073486328px;"><br /></span>
<span style="line-height: 22.000019073486328px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i>"Print more and faster with the <span style="color: #6fa8dc;">largest-in-class print platform</span>, high-resolution prints and quick set up. With prints 2.5 times larger than any other desktop prosumer and hobbyist printer (10.8” x 10.45” x 9.5” or 275 mm x 265 mm x 240 mm)."</i></span></span><br />
<span style="line-height: 22.000019073486328px;"><span style="font-family: inherit;"><i><br /></i></span></span>
<span style="line-height: 22.000019073486328px;">Now I don't know which exact class that is. <i>(It's probably the class of "Sub $5000 brand name printers with colorful screens and multiple extruders whose prints suck." Or some such prestigious category.) </i></span><span style="line-height: 22.000019073486328px;">AFAIK there are RepRaps out there with the same or larger build sizes since forever. </span><br />
<span style="line-height: 22.000019073486328px;"><br /></span>
<span style="line-height: 22.000019073486328px;">And now my favourite bulls#it category - CG prints. Like this one from their <a href="http://www.cubify.com/en/CubePro">official site:</a></span><br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9zzB_CeZWH9s_nerIDNhNfFlmmF8stIELtwbSUx1KFHiZZhsJmlQfAkP5cuCCITR4J9cRGI9_n2Y6qb8-fg4RIAgPWMSTuAvRnwNFpH_tNthPS1pKvuomAlZK_nQgl2Ck5ldRrWcu8tc/s1600/bkg_cubepro_strongfast.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" height="404" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9zzB_CeZWH9s_nerIDNhNfFlmmF8stIELtwbSUx1KFHiZZhsJmlQfAkP5cuCCITR4J9cRGI9_n2Y6qb8-fg4RIAgPWMSTuAvRnwNFpH_tNthPS1pKvuomAlZK_nQgl2Ck5ldRrWcu8tc/s1600/bkg_cubepro_strongfast.jpg" width="640" /></a></div>
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I just hate CG prints in advertisement, I can't help myself. What exactly are they supposed to be showing, how an STL looks when rendered?<br />
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But there is still more. Lets say you spend your hard-earned sub $5K on this printer. At the very least, you should have some decent brand-name support, unlike with the cheap-o RepRaps or other DIY printers. Well here's another quote:<br />
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"Warranty for Cube® and CubeX™ is 90 days and warranty for Sense 3D scanner is 1 year. Once shipped, the Cube® and/or CubeX™ and/or Sense 3D scanner cannot be returned for a refund or other form of credit."<br />
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Nice. This text appears on the Cubify.com site when you click to buy a printer. Although this does not say anything about the CubePro, I have little doubt in my mind it will be no different than with these two.<br />
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To sum it up: nice looking machine, very expensive, bad prints, expensive filament in few colors, bad prints, no selection of filament suppliers, multicolor prints which don't actually work right...<br />
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Somebody might say "Yeah, but that's probably not a production unit, it's a prototype!". That somebody definitely wouldn't be me because you only need to look at reviews for the CubeX to see what their production units are worth. Besides, it's their ad and they put it online, nowhere does it say it's a prototype. In the off chance that it indeed isn't a production unit whoever got the bright idea they should advertise it with such a crappy print (in the hopes nobody would ever click PAUSE on the video) should get fired immediately.<span style="font-size: x-small;"> <a href="http://www.3dsystems.com/press-releases/3d-systems-appoints-william-its-chief-creative-officer">(I know, it must have been will.i.am!)</a></span><br />
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This is no review, but I can't resist giving the CubePro a CCBR(TM) score of 0.5, and the prestigious<br />
Rock Bottom medal, without even laying eyes on it.<br />
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And that's without even mentioning filament cartridges...
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If you're interested in reading more about how "pro" printers compare to their more reasonably priced brethren, take a few minutes and <a href="http://www.tridimake.com/2014/03/quick-comparison-pro-versus-low-cost.html">read this post</a> on <a class="g-profile" href="https://plus.google.com/117153332077257116587" target="_blank">+Jeremie Francois</a>'s excellent blog!</div>

Megatronics V3.0 + UM Tutorial & Review

/ April 14, 2014
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<div>Okay, it's been a while since my last post, I've had this installed for quite a while, but unfortunately haven't had time to write this out before now.<br />
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">Before we get started here's a short</span> <b>DISCLAIMER:</b><br />
You do any of the procedures explained here at your own risk. I assume no responsibility for fried electronics, house fires, blown MOSFETS and/or anger issues that might arise from improper wiring.<br />
There may be errors here, so heavy usage of sanity is strongly suggested.<br />
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<h4>
What is the Megatorics V3.0?</h4>
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<br />
The <a href="http://reprapworld.com/?products_details&products_id=468&cPath=1591_1643">Megatronics V3.0</a> is the latest version of <a href="http://www.reprapworld.com/">RepRapWorld's</a> 3d printer electronics, designed to be a single PCB solution. The usual approach in the beginning of RepRap development was to use an Arduino board, and hook it up with a shield of sorts, which then interfaced with the printer's components. However most of the newer electronic designs tend to have the Atmega chip on board.<br />
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[size comparison of the megatronics V3.0 vs UM V1.5.3 electronics vs Arduino Mega2560]</div>
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This kind of design is a more elegant solution since it takes up less space, so it's easier to install, and well, however you look at it - it's damn prettier. :)</div>
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<div>
There is another thing worth mentioning - there are two distinct types of "single board" printer electronics: those with integrated stepper drivers, and those which use external ones. I must say I prefer the latter. </div>
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<div>
Using external stepper drivers makes them easily replaceable in case something goes wrong, and also with some boards (like this one) you get the option of using different stepper drivers instead of just the common Allegro chips. Namely, you can use <a href="http://www.pololu.com/product/2133">Texas Instruments' DRV8825</a> or <a href="http://www.pololu.com/product/2131">DRV8824</a> drivers, which can supply more current, and the boards have better thermal dissipation than the A498X-based boards. Also DRV882X boards support 1/32 microstepping. </div>
<div>
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<i>(The difference between the DRV8825 and DRV8824, is that the latter is a low-current model, more suitable for smaller stepper motors like NEMA8 or NEMA11)</i></div>
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<i><br /></i></div>
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Other notable features of the Megatronics V3.0 are the following:</div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>supports both four thermistors and two thermocouples</li>
<li>SIX stepper driver slots, so you can run THREE extruders</li>
<li>integrated microSD card slot, but also supports external SD cards</li>
<li>dimensions are only 109.5x90.5x18mm (ie. really small)</li>
<li>six MOSFETs (three for extruders, two for fans, and one for the heated build platform)</li>
<li>supports various LCDs and keypads</li>
<li>priced at 80 Euro (ex. VAT)</li>
</ul>
<a href="https://www.blogger.com/null" name="installation"></a>

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<h4>
Installation</h4>
<div>
So, since I managed to fry my old UM V1.5.3 electronics twice in a single week, I decided it was time for a newer, better solution. My orders from RepRapWorld have always been quickly delivered, with very fair shipping prices so hats off to them for that. </div>
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<div>
The board arrived well packaged, with no instructions or documentation, since it's all online. Before installing I recommend printing out and carefully reading the <a href="http://reprapworld.com/?products_details&products_id=468&cPath=1591_1643">Megatronics V3.0 Datasheet and Quick Start Guide.</a></div>
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The first thing I did was rip out everything from the bottom of my UM. Then I made a <a href="https://www.youmagine.com/designs/megatronics-v3-0-mounting-template">simple CAD template for the Megatronics' mounting holes</a> so I could drill them out. I aligned the template so that the USB port aligns with the original USB port hole. That way you can't really use the integrated microSD card  without cutting out a piece of the UM's side panel <i>(I wasn't intending to do so anyway)</i>. But, you can easily reach the board's reset switch, so that was good enough for me. The Megatronics' USB port is a tiny bit wider than the UM's stock one, so if you want it to go through the hole you must first widen it somehow. I decided it was okay if it didn't go through, since that gives you a bit more space when working with the pins and connectors on that side of the board. </div>
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<span style="font-size: x-small;">[the thing protruding from the upper right hand corner is the business end of a hex wrench, I have no clue why]</span></div>
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With the template in place I drilled the holes and used four sets of bolts, spacers and plastic nuts that held the original electronics to mount it. In the end I didn't use the fifth hole in the middle of the board, it seemed unnecessary.<br />
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[wow... such pretty... much amaze...]</div>
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Now that the board was in place, I installed my beefy 12V 30A PSU also to the bottom of the UM, since it can now fit comfortably. <i>(I used to have it bolted to the back side of the UM = not so pretty.)</i><br />
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<h4>
Before connecting any wires, I did the following in order:</h4>
1. Downloaded and installed the modified Arduino IDE which supports Megatronics from <a href="http://reprapworld.com/?software">HERE.</a><br />
2. Plugged in the board via USB.<br />
3. Used the Arduino IDE to install the test firmware found on <a href="http://reprapworld.com/?products_details&products_id=468&cPath=1591_1643">the product page.</a><br />
4. After making sure everything was in order I installed Marlin, also found on <a href="http://reprapworld.com/?software">RRW's software page</a>.</div>
<div>
5. Connected to the board via Pronterface, to confirm Marlin is running properly.<br />
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Note that before uploading Marlin you will most probably need to tweak some settings in the configuration.h file. (such as motor direction inversion, steps per mm, acceleration, jerk etc.) It would take too long to go into firmware specifics here, but I could write a short tutorial in the future if there will be interest for such a thing.  Also note that the recommended baud rate for Megatronics is 115200!</div>
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<h4>
With everything setup properly, here's how to wire the board: </h4>
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<b><span style="color: red;"><br /></span></b>
<b><span style="color: red;">BEFORE YOU BEGIN:</span></b> </div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>Please note that the Megatronics board has no power switch! You need to have a power switch on your power supply!</li>
<li>Disconnect the USB cable from the board, take care your PSU is also switched off and disconnected from the mains!</li>
</ul>
</div>
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<ul>
<li>You can choose where the 5V power for the processor will come from via a <span style="color: #3d85c6;">jumper</span>. It can either be from the USB cable (so you can upload firmware/connect to the board with the PSU off) or from your PSU (in which case the PSU must be on to connect, but you can also print from SD without having an USB cable connected).</li>
<li>You can use a 12V or 24V PSU. I suggest using 12V if you are not sure what you are doing. With a 24V PSU all the outputs from the Megatronics will also supply 24V so take care.</li>
<li>Setting the current on your stepper drivers is not for the faint of heart. There's lots of info on that around the Web so find it and read it all! Different drivers are adjusted in different ways. </li>
<li>Never touch the stepper driver pots while powered!</li>
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[A schematic of the board. The highlighted connections are the ones we will use.]</div>
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1. Plug in the stepper drivers <i>(the extruder stepper driver goes into the E0MOT header)</i>. <b><u>Be very careful</u> </b>when doing that, <b><u>if inserted improperly</u></b> they will most probably be <b><u>destroyed</u></b> when powered on. The proper orientation of the drivers is described in the Quick Start guide <i>(you have to be sure the Vmot pin is at the right place)</i>. Also, note the three jumpers that set microstepping modes. You need to consult the chart for your stepper driver model and adjust the jumpers accordingly. <i>(L or Low means disconnected, H or High means connected.)</i><br />
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Here is the chart for A4988 based drivers:</div>
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And here is one for DRV8825 based ones:</div>
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Your extruder and X and Y axes should be set to 1/16 microstepping, and the Z axis to 1/8.</div>
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2. Connect the <span style="color: #b6d7a8;">motors</span>. In case your motors <i>(like mine)</i> don't have the appropriate female connectors, you will have to buy some, taking care to connect the wires to them in the proper order, as shown below.<br />
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3. Connect the <span style="color: cyan;">endstops</span>, I only used the Xmin, Ymin and Zmin, since the max values are defined in the firmware anyway and I never use the max endstops. The endstop connectors have three pins for using optical or hall endstops, but since I have the stock mechanical ones, I only had two leads, which should be connected to the "S" and "-" pins <i>(the "+" pin is not used)</i>.<br />
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4. The Megatronics board has 2 outputs for the print head fans. I only use one so I plugged it in the <span style="color: orange;">FAN1</span> socket, just beside the <span style="color: #b6d7a8;">E0MOT </span>stepper driver.<br />
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5. Plug in your hotend thermistor or thermocouple into the appropriate port <i>(<span style="color: orange;">T0</span> for a thermistor or <span style="color: orange;">S1 </span>for a thermocouple).</i> I've switched from using UM's thermocouple to standard thermistors a while ago since the little amplifier board always got in the way of my designs somehow. Anyway, even if you are using a thermocouple you don't need that board anymore, just connect it to the <span style="color: #f9cb9c;">S1</span> input. <i>(Bear in mind that I don't know how well that would work since I have not tried, and I'm not sure if there will be too much interference from things like the printhead fan to use the thermocouple at all).</i><br />
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6. If you have a heated bed, connect its thermistor to <span style="color: #f9cb9c;">T1</span>.<br />
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7. Connect your heated bed to the "<span style="color: lime;">HB</span>" terminals.<br />
AFAIK, most Mk2 heated beds don't care for polarity, but others might, so take care.<br />
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8. Connect your hot end heater to the "<span style="color: lime;">E0</span>" terminal.<br />
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9. Connect two 12 V outputs from your PSU to the "<span style="color: red;">PWR</span>" and "<span style="color: red;">HBIN</span>" terminals minding the polarity.<br />
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10. Check <b>everything</b> is connected properly.<br />
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11. Check <b>again</b>.<br />
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In the end the whole thing should look something like this:<br />
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<h4>
You are now ready to turn the printer on.</h4>
If everything is okay, there should be no white smoke, no funny smell and no fire. If any of those symptoms are present you've done something very wrong.<br />
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<a href="https://www.blogger.com/null" name="installation"></a>

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<h4>
My thoughts on Megatronics V3.0 after some use:</h4>
<div>
To sum it up in one short sentence: I think this board is awesome! </div>
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<div>
To begin with, I think the board's cost is very appealing. Add to that the speedy and cheap shipping and good packaging and you get a nice shopping experience. After that, I had ZERO problems understanding the documentation and wiring everything up. I must say that the board datasheet and quick start guide are among the best docs I've seen in the RepRap ecosystem. <i>(Okay I lied there, I had one tiny question but the guys from RepRapWorld responded to my mail almost instantly so I'm counting that one out.)</i></div>
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<i><br /></i></div>
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This board's feature set is more than good enough for all but the most hard-core experimenters out there. Also I got to ditch the UM electronics fan, and get rid of those pesky little heatsinks which kept falling off by switching to DRV8825 drivers. It has additional 5V and 12V pinouts for all sorts of stuff you want to attach to the printer <i>(like additional fans for cooling the motors and such)</i>.</div>
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<div>
I especially like the small form factor which enabled me to put my PSU under the printer, but I did have to print some feet to raise the printer a bit since the PSU was a bit too thick.</div>
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<div>
It has status LEDs for all sorts of stuff so you can quickly check what's working and what isn't.</div>
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I see no major flaws when compared to other boards of its kind. If you don't want to use the included microSD, it's easy to wire up an external one and place it where you want. It's also easy to attach an LCD <a href="http://www.sainsmart.com/3d-printing/3d-printing-modules/sainsmart-smart-controller-ramps-1-4-lcd-12864-led-turn-on-control-for-3d-print-1.html">(like this one for example)</a>. The only little bad thing here is that there is no power switch, but that actually makes sense since the board was meant to be used with more powerful power supplies which can supply the heated bed along with the rest of the printer, and which should have power switches on themselves anyway. </div>
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<div>
One could argue that it isn't an ARM-based 32 bit board like some that are starting to show up, but I don't think that's so bad, because this works out of the box, and ARM based boards still have ways to go firmware-wise. </div>
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All in all, I give it  a  CCBR(TM) rating of 9.7 out of 10 and a shiny gold medal, because to my amazement one can do such things when one has a blog. <span style="font-size: x-small;">I should have started blogging earlier, 'tis fun!</span></div>
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<div>
 <b>PROS:</b></div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>fair price</li>
<li>very good manufacturing quality</li>
<li>small form factor</li>
<li>good documentation</li>
<li>lots of powerful features</li>
<li>status leds</li>
<li>reset switch</li>
<li><span style="color: #444444;">it's black</span></li>
</ul>
</div>
<div>
<br /></div>
<div>
<b>CONS:</b></div>
<div>
<ul>
<li>it's still Atmega, so it's not a top of the line 32bit ARM board</li>
<li>no power switch </li>
<li>nothing else I can think of</li>
</ul>
</div>
<br />
If you have suggestions, comments, or have found errors somewhere here, let me know!<br />
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<br /></div>

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